Bitey Puppies? That's Awesome!

The title may seem strange, I know.  Mouthy, bitey puppies...yay?  

It's true.  I like bitey puppies.  What I like about them is they are open to exploring the world in a manner most natural - with their mouths and teeth.  I recently responded to a social media post in regards of how to stop a mouthy puppy from being so bitey.  And while no, we don't want adults and older puppies mouthing the heck out of Grandma at Thanksgiving, it's very important to understand why it's vital that puppies learn how to bite.  

Yep.  Learn how to bite. 

When a client wants to stop their puppy from mouthing instantly or completely, I feel it's important to explain why learning bite moderation - or bite inhibition - is very important.  With training, the frequency of the mouthing/biting will be extinguished, but it's invaluable to teach your pup to soften their mouthing before diminishing the frequency. The problem with deterring mouthing altogether is that the puppy doesn't learn to moderate their bite, and can result in much harsher bites when they're older. Up until a puppy is around five months old, it's educational for them to learn where the line is on too hard of a bite. That line can be moved as they age and as you train, to a point where mouthing is no longer acceptable - but, they will have a greater understanding of how to manage their bite. 

You can help moderate the strength of their mouthing with a combination of "ouch" and providing appropriate chews.  For "ouch", whenever your puppy bites too hard, squeal or yelp, and cease all interaction.  Most puppies will stop abruptly, after which you can re-engage them provided the play isn't so rough.  If a puppy is overstimulated or over-tired, they may persist in biting, which means it's time to take a break.  Giving the puppy a chance to decompress is very important in those instances, and you can provide a chew for them to relax with once they've stopped persisting.  Make sure that this happens every time to maintain consistency and keep training progressing. 

It's also good to instill fun play with appropriate breaks - mixing impulse control behaviors such as sit or down in with play (typically I recommend every 10 seconds or so).  This helps to teach a puppy who gets overstimulated a more moderated way to play, so that they don't go over threshold and start mouthing more than they typically do. 

If you're consistent with "ouch" and brief timeouts where needed, you will find that your puppy's mouthing becomes gentler and gentler as he learns what the line is. As time goes on, you begin squealing/yelping for softer bites until he's no longer exerting pressure.  It should feel like your puppy is gumming you rather than using teeth. At that point, I recommend teaching off, drop it, and take it, to show your puppy that keeping his teeth off people is more rewarding than putting them on someone at all.  

Keep in mind that family, friends, and other guests should keep the same training protocol with the puppy, as we want puppies to learn in a consistent manner.  With training and patience, you will have a puppy who has a soft mouth and positively ceases mouthing. ​​

8 Rules For Bringing Home Your New Dog Or Puppy

Lately, I've had a lot on my mind in regards to bringing a new dog or puppy home.  When preparing for our new companion, it's simple to remember the traditional things: bowls, leash and collar, bed, food, toys, treats.  What about some of the less visible preparations? 

1) Basic acclimation is at least 2-4 weeks.  Whether you have a new puppy or dog, standard adjustment time is going to take about a month.  Keep in mind that acclimation is your dog adjusting to their new environment, and you'll see them acclimate to many more environments as time goes on with you.  It's important to give your new puppy or dog time to simply breathe as they learn about their new home and family.  Imagine if we invited in an exchange student from a country that didn't speak the native language.  Would we expect them to learn their way around instantly, to understand what we're saying, to get along with everyone else without concern - while, constantly hugging them, waving food in their face, and expecting their full attention?  It seems crazy!  And yet, that is often the environment and expectations simulated for dogs in their new homes.  Give them time.  Work patiently, closely examine their choices, analyze hiccups, and engineer their environment for success for all.  

2) Observe, observe, observe. Closely monitor and note the choices that your new dog or puppy is making.  They can be simple, from a favorite toy - or, more serious such as evaluating and interpreting their body language with humans and other pets.  Observe them in the yard - NEVER leave a new dog or puppy unattended!  Observe how they assess strangers, new animals, and children.  If you spend the acclimation period observing, you will learn so much about your dog and what they need.

3) Reward good choices. While you want to take the time to observe and give your dog a chance to acclimate, reward their solid choices!  This helps give your new dog/puppy a clear idea of what behaviors are desired, and also helps to bring your relationship together. 

4) House trained doesn't mean no accidents.  House training a puppy is a given.  But an adult dog?  Many adopters or owners hope that their recently acquired adult dog is potty trained and ready to be a secure canine citizen.  Acclimation also includes the important facets of house training.  Your new adult dog may be house trained, but it takes time for them to learn where to signal and how to signal.  Be mindful of signs in adults that you would address for puppies: sniffing, circling, looking lost, etc.  Keep them on a schedule, monitoring food and drink.  

5) There may be squabbles.  Dogs communicate in a multitude of ways, and in new and unfamiliar situations they may react with a stronger display than will become typical.  It's not uncommon for the new AND existing dogs to exhibit concerned body language, issue some growls, and display uncertainty.  Just as people take some time to get to know each other, dogs do as well; and, it takes some time for them to learn each other's individual personalities and communication styles.  This is where your keen observation will help to diffuse, as careful monitoring of space, communication, and resources can make for a calmer acclimation environment. 

6) Confine when unable to monitor.  With puppies, this is a bit more of a given.  But even with adults, crate or confine them when unattended.  Avoid destruction, and improve potty training.  Confining mitigates issues arising from adjustment or anxiety, and offers your new dog/puppy a quiet space in which to relax. 

7) Be prepared to minimize the toys or treats.  Imagine you are at a restaurant, and a stranger walks up and takes food off your plate.  Would you be angry? Horrified? Absolutely!  Would you tell them so?  For sure.  And I would bet it wouldn't be very accommodating.  BUT.  If you were out to dinner with your best friend, and they take a french fry?  It's likely a whole other story.  Dogs are the same, they have to build relationships with the humans and other animals in their home to feel comfortable sharing.  Too often, we hear of dogs who were pressurized into defending what they felt was theirs to enjoy, and the resulting reaction (typically uncomfortable) can feel alarming or concerning.  If you have multiple dogs, be prepared to pick up certain toys and to keep the edible chews to a minimum.  Feed all animals separately, and do not bother them while eating.  Resource guarding stems from fear, and it's vital to give your new dog or puppy the space to feel secure while enjoying meals or chews. 

8) Keep all things in mind but enjoy!  Don't forget to enjoy having your new dog or puppy in your home, and to set them up for positive success!  Be mindful in your socialization, clear in your rewards, and love your new family member. 

There are more things - but, I should put them in a new post before this one gets too long!  Having a new dog or puppy join your life is an amazing and enriching experience for all. 

The Power Of Choice

Why is choice so important? 

Today on a hike, Aria encountered seven people on the trail.  Seven people who all looked very different, had different hats and glasses, moved differently, and engaged differently.  Aria is working on her fearfulness of strangers, and she is rewarded for visually interacting with new people and making calm choices. 

At this point in her training, I am rewarding calm and visual interaction choices with food.  With repetition, she is learning to associate assessing strangers with positive results, as I am also certain to keep us both at an appropriate distance from strangers.  How is appropriate determined?  By Aria's choices.  If she feels the stranger is too close or moving too fast or wearing the wrong hat, she chooses not to take food or not to respond to the clicker or to move further away.  These choices on her part tell me when I need to examine the situation and appropriately manage it for her success.  Her choices are vitally important to her continued training and feelings of success in her world. 

 Visually interacting with the incoming hiker.











Choosing to remain relaxed!











The seventh stranger that passed us was a trail runner - someone who had the potential to be very nervewracking. With six positive interactions offered from Aria prior, she made the choice this last time to offer repeated visual calm and watch the runner as he proceeded down the trail.  This was a huge step, as runners are still concerning for her at this stage in her training.  But with consistent repetition of rewarding for positive choices and assessment - she was highly successful!  

Dogs who partake in this interact and choose game make strong and positive connections with things that they are fearful of - provided that we as handlers are consistent!  It is very much as if you were on a walk with a friend, and you were afraid of trucks.  Envision that a truck turns onto the street you're walking on, and you eyeball it...wanting to see if it's coming closer, what it's going to do.  Suddenly your friend hands you a $50 bill.  What?  The truck gets closer, and when you watch its movements your friend hands you $100 bill.  The truck passes, and you both continue your walk.  Another truck turns onto the street, and your first instinct is to closely assess it to see where it's going.  Your friend hands you a $50 bill.  Oh yeah!  Maybe there's a $100 bill coming.  You choose to watch the incoming truck, and sure enough your friend hands you $100.  After multiple trucks pass, you aren't feeling as much fear now, are you?  You've changed to feeling somewhat expectant when trucks appear, and you choose to visually interact and remain calm in order to encourage the payday.  

Now, if you assess a truck moving down the street at a high speed, you may choose to react differently.  If your friend handed you two $100 bills when this particular truck passed, that would create a new association with speeding trucks, and you are likely to choose to assess and feel calmer the next time you see one moving swiftly.

With dogs, this is much of the same when we can offer them opportunities to make positive choices about how they interact with their environment.  For fearful dogs, this can create significant leaps forward in their associations.  The same goes for reactive dogs, or even puppies.  It's all about setting your dog up for success in making positive and impactful choices.