Dog Bites Are Not Trophies

Recently, I was having a conversation with a fellow exhibitor at an event, talking about general dog training and methodologies.  Learning that she was a professional dog trainer, the discussion turned to challenging dogs and stories.  She shared that she specialized in aggressive dogs that no one else would dare touch...and proceeded to roll up her sleeves to show me a litany of scars, sharing that she had been bitten 23 times.  Her pride in her scars was tangible, her manner of sharing boastful.

Dog. Bites. Are. Not. Trophies.  Dog bites are not badges of honor.  They are visible reminders of every time an individual either a) grossly misread a dog's signals, or b) knowingly pushed a dog past those signals and forced the dog to resort to biting.  Neither of these instances are memories that I would be particularly proud of, nor would I be showing off as marks of accreditation or legitimacy.

If a trainer ever proudly shares how many times they've been bit, run - do not walk - run away.  This is overtly showing inexperience and lack of care when working with dogs.

In general, dogs have a pretty long fuse of tolerance for the silly things that humans do.  As professional and certified dog trainers, we study body language and its minutia in order to best read and communicate with our charges.  A dog's variety in body language is why it's very infrequent that dog bites truly "come out of nowhere".  There were often signals, even if the signals were somewhat suppressed in the case of dogs who have had communication lines strained or severed by people in the past. It is a dog trainer's job to read the signals, respect what the dog is telling them, and proceed appropriately with the dog under threshold and able to work and make progress.

Progress is achieved by mutual respect, understanding, and clear communication.  Progress is prohibited by knowingly blowing past a dog's "please, don't, don't make me do this" signals either through sheer inexperience or in order to win for ego's sake.  There is no room for ego in effective dog training, and inexperience needs to be educated appropriately under the tutelage of the more advanced - before handling a dog inappropriately and getting bit in the process.

So why is this such a hot button topic for me?  For all the reasons above, but especially: when dogs are pushed past all thresholds and levels of communication, they learn that people are not to be trusted - and that biting is an effective deterrent.  Teaching a dog to bite as a first resort is never the goal in any training setting, and the more that we task dogs to rehearse this behavior, the more we are setting them up for failure.  There are already too many dogs relinquished in shelters who have been taught to bite.  Truly professional trainers should never be a party to creating more.

Respect the dog you are working with, and the dog who has shown up in front of you.  Educate compassionately and humanely.  Dog bites are not trophies.

Condition Me This: Classical or Operant?

In working with many private dog training clients, I have found that people want to use both classical and operant conditioning; but, they often get the two mixed up, or put them out of order.  This can cause frustration in the training process, and can impede communication between dog and handler.

Let's utilize a scenario to best explain the difference between classical and operant conditioning:

I recently worked with a dog who loved car rides to the point where he barked, circled, jumped, and in general went nuts every time the owner picked up the keys.  In order to stop the behavior, the owner would quickly leash the dog up, and take him to the car where he would finally calm down and enjoy the ride. 

The owner wanted to change the behavior, so they started asking their dog to sit every time a dog they picked up their keys.  It was a good thought - trying to pair an incompatible response.  But nothing was really improving, and the dog would often sit but continue barking - or break out and jump/circle anyway. The owner was frustrated, and the dog was frustrated. 

So where do they go from here?

Classical conditioning is the building of association with involuntary responses.  Involuntary responses are salivating, excitement, fear, anything naturally occurring. In the case of this client dog, he naturally paired the keys (which on their own have no value or importance to a dog) with the excitement of the car ride through repetition.  The dog already was emotionally excited about riding in the car.  After many trips, the dog began to build the association that picking up keys = car ride, which really meant picking up keys = excitement = car ride.  

So how does classical conditioning help?

We began having the owner pick up their keys, and go do dishes, or take a shower, or anything that was not going to the car.  With time and repetition, this changed the dog's association of the keys with the car...he wasn't sure what the keys represented, which lowered the heightened emotional response. 

Once the dog was no longer barking, jumping, or carrying on when the keys were picked up, the dog was ready to begin participating in operant conditioning to learn a new behavior chain.  Dogs learn best when they are under threshold, whether that threshold be influenced by a positive or negative emotional response.  Now, the owner could begin creating the behavior of keys = sit.  Once his dog was able to learn keys = sit, then the dog learned keys = sit = car ride.  A more relaxed and happy car ride for all!

This training process was able to happen because we used classical conditioning to naturally change the dog's involuntary behavior associated with the keys, and further using operant conditioning to teach the dog a voluntary behavior in response to the presence of the keys. 

Happy conditioning!

Choosing The Right Trainer: Helping A Fearful Puppy

Everyone knows that when getting a dog or puppy you should research ethical breeders, responsible rescues, educated veterinarians, etc.  Unfortunately, what constitutes a responsible and educated trainer seems to be up for debate, and a well-meaning family can do all the right research and still end up with a trainer who is not a good fit.

I was recently called by respected Alaskan Klee Kai breeder - Howlin' Wins - in regards to a puppy that she placed with a family.  She had received a very concerning video of a private training session, as it contained strong and aversive techniques; and, the puppy was clearly frightened about the situation.  The family had reached out to her with their own concerns, as their puppy's behavior was worsening under professional tutelage and they were hoping for advice on how to proceed. 

The family called in the trainer to assist with the puppy's nervousness towards unfamiliar dogs.  Behaviors such as growling, cowering, trying to run away, and warning barks were exhibited by the pup whenever he encountered strange dogs.  I am so happy that the family recognized their puppy needed help with building relationships with other dogs, and that they didn't hesitate to research and call in a trainer to gain a professional opinion.

Regretfully, this trainer felt that the right way to "fix" the problem was to use restraint, a prong collar, and repeated corrections to 'discipline' the behavior out of this tiny pup.  The video depicted the trainer holding the puppy down, and encouraging a large dog to approach and sniff/engage with the puppy.  The puppy cried and tried to lash out every time the larger dog approached him, to which the trainer applied increasing corrections with the prong collar.  As the situation intensified, the puppy escalated with snapping and redirecting, at which point the trainer applied more force physically and through the prong collar. 

I watched the video several times, more appalled each time.  This was a four month old puppy.  All of the corrections effectively served to teach the puppy that bad things happen when other dogs are around.  In addition, that strange people were not to be trusted.  Quite the opposite of training confidence around dogs - these methods were surely to teach the puppy to fear other dogs to the point of redirection and aggressive behaviors. 

I am very grateful that Vickie reached out, and how she communicated with the puppy's family that she would like to bring in a different trainer who was experienced in the breed - who used positive reinforcement.  The family was highly responsive, as they were very uncomfortable with the overall training experience.  I am so glad that they recognized that their other trainer's actions might not be the right choice. 

Upon attending the first training session, the puppy was very worried about my appearance.  At first, he wanted nothing to do with me, but through patience and the power of cheese we began to develop a relationship.  

     

We simply played a treat dispensing game, rewarding each time he moved towards me or showed relaxed body language.  By keeping my own body turned away and offering calm rewards, my new little friend eventually consented to join me in the cheese parade.  A happy participant in a short time, willingly making a new friend and building a positive connotation with strangers.

    

Once the pup and I had generated a better emotional experience, we geared up for distance work with a strange dog.  As he recently had a terrible instance with a strange dog, and had reservations in general, we only intended on using the open bar technique when the strange dog appeared.  The pup showed he was very concerned when my dog Brixton was in view, but after rewards and space/respect from Brix, the pup began to show mild interest.  Keeping Brixton at a comfortable distance combined with zero pressure to interact began to build the pup's confidence in consenting to solicit engagement. 

Imagine my surprise, that after his horrible experience with another dog, that the pup came over to sniff Brixton - and offered an adorably awkward play bow.  Mind, it was a bow with some uncomfortable vocalizations, but a bow nevertheless.  He was thinking about asking for some interaction!  Brixton offered a full play bow in return, to which the puppy deliberated...paused...and pounced forward in a full play bow with waving tail. 

The play was cute, awkward, and uncertain at first.  Brixton was the right playmate for this puppy, as he read the body language well and offered space when the pup needed it.  As the puppy saw there was nothing to fear, and that he was free to choose his own interaction, the playtime grew into happy and relaxed session for both.  We ended on a high note, with the pup wanting more. More interaction with a strange dog, when he previously had been terrified. 

 

 

What a wonderful way to end an evaluation!  The family was thrilled to see their pup happily interacting with a strange dog, and having a confident experience during training.  I was equally thrilled that the puppy was still willing to consent to experiential learning despite his highly unfortunate experience with his former trainer.  

This puppy's family is very loving and caring with their puppy, and they did their research before hiring this trainer.  The trainer came highly recommended, and they didn't have the information on the best way to question how this individual would help their puppy.  It is currently not required that dog trainers have any formal education or certification, and trainers who use corrective and aversive methods can often seem "effective" (and subsequently popular) since corrective training can cause learned helplessness and general masking of behavior.  When researching trainers, I would highly advise pet owners to ask questions like: 

1) What certifications or education do you have?

2) What experience do you have with my dog's breed(s)?

3) What is your training methodology? (we're looking for positive methods with rewards and understanding of science-based methods)

4) May I see videos of you working with clients?

5) How have you helped other dogs with the same training needs my dog has? 

It's so important to address the needs of each individual dog with a plan that is rooted in positively encouraging engagement and interaction.  Positive methodologies may not always be the most flashy, but the proof is in how the dog or puppy begins to operate his or her own environment...building in confidence, offering behaviors, and developing emotional security.  

I am thankful for the opportunity to work with this pup, and am looking forward to seeing him learn and grow in confidence with positive training! 

Patience and Blow Dryers

Aria is from a hoarding situation in Virginia, and subsequently missed out on appropriate socialization and exposure.  Unfamiliar or unexpected noises is one of her largest concerns to this day, and it can be especially challenging to combine those fears with a public place.  For quite some time, we have been working towards being able to be bathed AND blow dried at Pet Supplies Plus - and today was finally the day.

Aria and I have been working with the blow dryers at home, pairing a positive reinforcement schedule with the noise they make.  Over time and repetition (several months), she has become much calmer and comfortable with their use.  There was also a great deal of peanut butter involved!  There was never any sense of rush, just working at her pace - keeping a close eye on her FAS levels and notating positive signs of change (looking excited at the dryer being presented!)  Once she was comfortable with water and dryers at home, we began making trips to PSP just to increase the value and decrease concern about being in the store.  From there, Aria was comfortable going there for a bath, then a bath with the blow dryer running nearby, and today accepted the blow dryer for a complete bath.  We went slowly, always being mindful of her FAS level, but she was wonderfully accepting of the entire process.

Of course, we paired her successful bath day with a puppuccino from Starbucks!

It's so wonderful to see her continue to progress and become comfortable with a wide range of canine activities.  I look forward to seeing how far she can go!

                   

"I Want To Pet Your Dog"

You're browsing in an aisle in the grocery store, lost in thought about what meals to plan for the week.  Suddenly, you realize a stranger is staring at you down at the end of the aisle.  A little creeped out, you turn back to the shelves, trying to ignore their uncomfortable staring.  You become aware that they're now walking purposefully towards you, and have a huge and unsettling grin on their face.  Concerned, you begin backing away, trying to put space between you and the stranger, who is still approaching with rapidity.  You rush up to the associate at the end of the aisle, and ask for help - just as the stranger reaches you.  The stranger begins to stroke your hair, and you angrily tell them to stop it.  The associate grabs your wrist, admonishing you for being rude to another patron.  You're so taken aback, the stranger​ is the one being rude!

Sound terrible?  When and where would this possibly happen?  The answer is that many dogs go through this every day.  

In dog body language, showing teeth and a hard/firm stare is considered to be threatening.  That threat can be meant to deter, dissuade, or announce action, but there is no mistaking the display. Now let's think about how most strangers approach your dog on the street.  They see your dog, and their eyes widen.  They can't help but smile, their grin getting increasingly large as they approach.  They love dogs of course, but let's think of it from the dog's point of view.  Staring, showing teeth, approaching with intent.  It can be very difficult for dogs, especially fearful ones, to understand the nuances of human body language that would indicate that this overly enthusiastic stranger means no harm.  

How can you help your dog?  You can help by coaching strangers, training with your dog, and by understand that it's perfectly acceptable that people do not need to pet your dog. 

"Dogs love me!", often exclaimed with ear-piercing enthusiasm and a forward motion of contact.  People who love dogs are good people - some just may need coaching on how to say hi in a dog-friendly manner.  I am fortunate that my dogs are well-socialized, but I will still offer guidance to people when they want to pet.  In my experience, it is best if you tell people 1) the action they need to take, and 2) how to execute it.  "She feels most comfortable when you kneel down and offer her your side, so she can choose to greet you." Or, "he's in training, and we would love it if you would help - if you could drop a treat as you pass by without touching, that would be wonderful".  The general public enjoys dogs and wants to be helpful.  Giving them canine communication tips while gaining their buy-in via helpfulness can bring a positive tone while avoiding interactions you don't want.  

Working with your dog to counter-condition natural human excitement can give your dog a whole new level of confidence in strange situations.  Working from afar at first, you can click and reward your dog for calm observance of strangers that smile, make loud noises, run, etc.  Think of the typical behaviors that would indicate someone wants to approach your dog, and build on them in training.  If your dog begins to associate smiles and squeals with hugely positive rewards, they will begin to look forward to a stranger that demonstrates these actions.  You can also teach a "say hi" cue, to give your dog confidence and a sense of choice.  I teach my dogs a hand touch in front of knees with the cue "say hi", giving them a consistent action and location to expect handling from a stranger.  Giving your dog the ability to choose to interact, with an expected outcome can go a long way.  Additionally, "say hi" pays well every time, and my dogs linger and linger with strangers, hoping for extra rewards.



And in reality, strangers do not have to pet your dog.  If you can tell your dog is uncomfortable, you are not obligated to proceed.  It's more important that your dog is set up for success and builds confidence around people they don't know, than to force an interaction.  Always work at your dog's pace, and engineer a positive environment for them.  And praise and reward when they choose to approach strangers! 

Say Yes To Undesirable Behavior

Say yes to...bad behavior?  

Ok - full disclosure, the title is misleading.  In reality, it's missing a word: "Say yes to extinguish undesirable behavior" would be more accurate. 

If you've been reading Train Hard, Play Always, you know that I love work analogies.  And sit back, grab a snack, because I have another for you. 

We've all had that job, that boss, that relationship where the person in question constantly tells you what you did wrong.  Think about that connection.  Did you enjoy that?  Did they make you anxious?  What could be wrong yesterday, today, tomorrow...striving to excel at exceedingly unidentified criteria...bracing for the next "NO".  

What an anxious relationship, that kind of feedback contrives.  Many people leave these types of jobs, these types of relationships.  To coin a popular analysis, these are considered "toxic" relationships. 

So, why should we expect our dogs to thrive under such a relationship? 

Whenever you say "no" to your dog, they comprehend that "something" has gone wrong IN THIS PARTICULAR CIRCUMSTANCE.  Dogs do not generalize well, and need our guidance on how to translate specific behaviors into encompassing ones.  When we constantly say no, they can interpret that in a manner of ways.  "Is it ALWAYS no, here and now?" "Is it no, for THIS behavior?"  "Is it no around THIS person/dog?".  The list can continue.

Dogs are thinking, feeling, and communicative beings.  When we focus on the "no" rather than the "yes", we take away their confidence and their ability to think independently.  Thinking with intelligent independence is so productive in any household!  A dog analyzing each situation, remembering positive feedback, and applying with depth and breadth makes each dog-family unit so much more cohesive.  

As such, the answer is SAYING YES.  Praise your dog for positive choices.  Reward them for excellent decisions.  Empower them with positively reinforced applications of behavior.  Your dog is laying on the floor calmly, rather than jumping on the counter to investigate dinner?  REWARD.  Your dog sits by the door when they'd like to go out?  REWARD.  Your dog looks at you when a scary person in a hat comes up the sidewalk?  SAY YES.  Don't neglect these winning opportunities to give positive feedback.  Focusing on rewarding your dog for their positive choices makes all the difference in the world.  It instills confidence and security, grows your relationship, and empowers them to make positive choices in their environment on their own.  They will be more engaged, happy, attentive, inquisitive, and every other adjective used to describe any "up and comer" in a company setting. 

Waiting for your dog to fail is setting your dog up for continued failure. Instead, REWARD FOR THEIR GOOD CHOICES. 

Treat your dog as you would like to be treated.  Tell them what they do right, and continue to build their confidence off of identifiably positive criteria.  Your dog will thank you!

Good Pay - What Makes It Good?

Earlier this month, we discussed how good work deserves pay.  But it bears the question - what exactly is "good" pay?

Good pay is defined by the dog, for each situation/environment that he or she is working in.  The concept of "good" considers the value of the reward, the challenge of the tasks required, and what rate best reinforces your dog for maximum success. 

I am often presented with terrific pet parents who are perplexed by their dog's success in the home, yet utter distraction in the outdoors or in a store.  In considering the concept of good pay, we have to consider the work involved.  It is a common concept that the harder the work, the greater the pay.  Your dog deserves to be compensated at a rate appropriate to the difficulty of hand.  They are very familiar with your living room, which means minimal distraction and an excellent chance of success even with new exercises to teach. In-home, your dog may be happy to work for lower value treats, as there is not as great of a need to either desensitize or generalize to a new environment.  When the stakes are high?  Up your game! 

When taking your dog's show on the road, you need to prepare three things:

1) High-value treats.  This is the big leagues now, so break out the hot dogs, liver sausage, string cheese, boiled chicken, liver brownies, tuna squares, squeaky Wubba, tug toy, etc etc.  Be excited to pay your dog in canine cold hard cash.  Keep in mind that "high-value" does differ for every dog - Aria's most prized reward are generic tortilla chips....weird? Yes.  Do I watch the sodium?  For sure.  If we're going somewhere challenging?  You better believe they're coming with. 

2) The environment at hand.  Are you taking your fearful dog to a park setting? Your leash-reactive dog to a busier street?  Be prepared to work from a successful distance, which means your dog is still interested in the reward.  If your dog is ignoring your high-value reward, then you know it's either A) not high-value enough, or B) they're too close and going over threshold. 

3) Rate of reinforcement.  If your dog is accurately offering the desired behavior in the new environment, please pay them quickly and repeatedly.  Imagine if you only recently got a new job, and you were expected to be accurate out in the field in only a day or two.  Stressful?  Sure thing.  If you were getting paid extra per minute for your hard work invested to being accurate and successful?  Darn straight you would work even harder.  The same goes for dogs.  Pay them fast and well for success in a new setting with new challenges. 

Will all three reinforcement protocols adjust with time?  Absolutely.  Once your dog adjusts to the "new normal": rate of reinforcement goes down, your dog feels more secure in the newer environment, and they begin appreciating more mild rewards.  But it takes the time and effort in the initial (and often ongoing) stages to best help them towards a new level of success. 

Just as good work deserves good pay, consider what is "good" for your dog.  It will help them be the most excited and consistent partner that you can imagine.